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ste
712 Posts |
 Posted - 28 avr. 2009 : 16:47:02
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AviUA,
I've never found the cause - it (hyper sensitivity) has gone by itself one day, much later after we disassembled Mio couple of times finding nothing special.
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Mio C520 R48.3.9937.1026 MioPocket 4.0 SD Release 68 |
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mathwiz314
USA
308 Posts |
Posted - 28 avr. 2009 : 23:16:50
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| the same thing happened to me |
Mio C520
MioPocket 4.0 (Release 60) |
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Osprey
USA
2764 Posts |
Posted - 29 avr. 2009 : 06:20:56
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| You may be able to reduce the sensitivity by putting a tiny bit of cushioning between the casing and the little board that the power button makes contact with. |
Mio C320 (US), R40 firmware, WinCE 5.0 Core, MioPocket 4.0 Release 68
Latest MioPocket: MioPocket 4.0 (Release 68) - Dec 6, 2010 & ReadMe |
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mathwiz314
USA
308 Posts |
Posted - 29 avr. 2009 : 23:04:57
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| but I notice that even the slightest touch to the board causes standby |
Mio C520
MioPocket 4.0 (Release 60) |
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Osprey
USA
2764 Posts |
Posted - 30 avr. 2009 : 00:39:57
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| I meant cushioning to the board on either side of the board's button, not over the button. That would separate the board a tiny bit from the physical button on the casing, perhaps reducing the sensitivity. It's just an idea; it's not something that I've tried (since I have no problems with my button). |
Mio C320 (US), R40 firmware, WinCE 5.0 Core, MioPocket 4.0 Release 68
Latest MioPocket: MioPocket 4.0 (Release 68) - Dec 6, 2010 & ReadMe |
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ste
712 Posts |
Posted - 30 avr. 2009 : 07:36:04
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mathwiz314,
look for any separator below the board (black rubber peaces) - probably it's too thick, and motherboard needs more freedom not to be stressed causing stanby. |
Mio C520 R48.3.9937.1026 MioPocket 4.0 SD Release 68 |
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AviUA
2 Posts |
Posted - 30 avr. 2009 : 21:56:25
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OK folks, Osprey's two posts gave me the info I needed to dig into the power switch issue. I will try to figure out how to attach some photos of the inside to illustrate what I found.
First of all, when fiddling with power switches, it's a good idea to first disconnect the battery, so that you don't risk bricking your unit with inadvertant spikes. Also please take precautions to discharge static electricity from yourself and your tools before you start and while you are working.
The power switch is a bubble switch; essentially, there are several traces on a pcb that terminate underneath a bubble, or dome, of springy metal. When the bubble is depressed, it pops from being convex to being concave, and its underside makes contact with the traces, closing the connection between them. These bubbles are loved by manufacturers because they can put them wherever they want just by arranging the traces on the pcb and gluing a bubble in place. I am personally less enthralled with them, because their longevity is a function of the quality of the material of which they are made. Sometimes the bubble loses its springiness; this is one of the more common failure modes, because repeated "punching" on the switch eventually causes metal fatigue. Sometimes, if it wasn't gold-plated, it develops an oxide on its underside that interferes with good contact. Sometimes, if it's not well sealed, dirt can cause bad connections. In the case of my switch, I thought maybe the bubble had started collapsing and hence made contact at the slightest touch, even though I've hardly used the c520. But before I started fiddling with it, I decided to make sure the ribbon cable connecting it to the mother board was properly plugged in. Checking this necessitates removing the speaker assembly per Osprey's instructions; you will find the connector underneath the same small piece of black tape covering the battery connector, but then you're already there because you first disconnected the battery as a precaution, didn't you? When I plugged the various connectors back in, I painted them all with a bit of Stabilant, just as a precaution.
Turns out, in my case, the bubble still made a really nice "pop" when pressed normally, but was obviously making contact at the slightest brush of a finger or plastic tool. What it looks like is that it wasn't centered over the traces on the underlying pcb, but was shifted sideways a bit, and I guess the edges were very close to contacting the traces underneath. I don't know if it had been glued a little off center during manufacture, or if it had migrated over time; the latter seems likely, since the device worked fine when new, and since the glue is a bit soft, I can imagine it might get softer in a hot automobile. A closer look showed that it didn't look like it was quite in the right place - you may be able to see this in my photo, even after I shifted it a bit - I think. In any event, I just sort of nudged it back towards where it should be by pushing patiently on one edge with a fingernail for a few seconds. This seemed to do the trick. I can't be certain that I actually moved it significantly - it may well be that I simply made it "bubble up" a bit more and got it away from the traces underneath, but in any event, it got rid of the "soft touch".
For those for whom this technique doesn't work, the other thing I was considering doing (but didn't have to) was to shorten the post protruding from the underside of the plastic push-button with a dremel, so it isn't normally resting on the top surface of the bubble. The button is mounted to the case on a slightly springy arm of plastic, so it should withdraw ok from the top surface of the bubble, if a bit of a gap can be created.
I hope this helps others with a similar problem.
Kind regards,
-avi
You can see the connector for the switch next to the battery connector, and the piece of black tape that covered it resting nearby.
If you need to remove the switch and replace it altogether ( I don't know where one would get one of these), the ribbon unfortunately is glued underneath the foam padding for the battery - I would slice through the padding to get the old one out and the new one in, rather than trying to lift the padding. The switch mount is held in place with three small screws.
Here you can see the bubble off center, even after I "shoved" it (GENTLY)with a fingernail - but apparently I moved it enough - we'll see how long it stays fixed ....
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Edited by - AviUA on 30 avr. 2009 22:18:49 |
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Osprey
USA
2764 Posts |
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c320ez
USA
21 Posts |
Posted - 05 mai 2009 : 01:49:39
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| Osprey... how is your c320 since replacing the battery? I notice you now have a c520. I hope this doesn't mean you bricked your device with the new battery. |
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Osprey
USA
2764 Posts |
Posted - 05 mai 2009 : 05:55:08
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c320ez,
No, no, no bricking. The new battery works great. It lasts sooooo long. I've yet to charge it even once since installing it. |
Mio C320 (US), R40 firmware, WinCE 5.0 Core, MioPocket 4.0 Release 68
Latest MioPocket: MioPocket 4.0 (Release 68) - Dec 6, 2010 & ReadMe |
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c320ez
USA
21 Posts |
Posted - 05 mai 2009 : 20:45:00
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| Good to know. I ended up getting an external 4AA battery pack for mine. It works well seems to last forever. I figured out an easy solution for the charging screen, which was just putting it to sleep first then turning on the external battery pack. The thing only cost $5 on clearance at WalMart. I figured for $5 it was worth a go. So far I had it on for 3 hours and it still wasn't using the internal battery at all. I put the batteries on a tester and they still showed to be almost fully charged. Hard to beat. Since I am using rechargeable batteries that I already had, I expect it to last me awhile. Much appreciated for your tutorial though, maybe one day I'll finally break my c320 open. |
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hakan
Romania
18 Posts |
Posted - 14 mai 2009 : 20:14:09
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Inside MIO C720
as seen on the below photoon the speaker holder mounted a camera lens
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu125/mpmallianz/DSC02189.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu125/mpmallianz/DSC02198.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu125/mpmallianz/DSC02205.jpg
camera is connected to board with a socket; when you want to change battery also you must remove speaker holder so the camera and socket.
to install it back I suggest first also remove canera from holder gently to backside; insert camera to socket to board : then canera to holder etc.
Dispite these I have problem with battery. It only lasts for 1 hour and 30 minutes. When I first installed Mio showed %64 full. I charged full. Two days I tried on car without car cahrger not more than 90 minutes. From night to morning it drops from %100 to % 84 standby. and from monrning to evening dropped to %60. When I open again it remains stable between %62-64. 
I measured my old battery which was lasting less than 1 minute. It shows 3.89 V. The new one installed showed 3.79 V (with %60 MIO showed). The new one which I never installed ( brand new in packet( showed also 3.8 V
Any one expriencing same? Any suggestions
thanks
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MIO C720 ; FW R02.3.9913.1018 ; FEU maps ; V3.3 jan 10 2008
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mkss55442
USA
319 Posts |
Posted - 19 oct. 2009 : 03:12:41
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I recently replaced the battery in my C320 and want to add 2 cautions from my experience.
When I pulled out the speaker cable (using only the top of the plug), it was so tight that the jack ripped off the board. I cut off the speaker connector and soldered on about 1-1/2" of tiny wire. After studying the board under a lighted magnifying glass (and a lot of luck), I was able to solder the wires to the correct spots.
When I pulled up the battery, I found a flex cable stuck to the bottom of the foam pad that is between the battery and the circuit board. If someone were to try pulling the battery up in one pull, they may rip the cable. The first picture below shows the battery in place (it's the new battery but assume it's the old battery for this post). You can see the flex cable at it's connector.
This next image is with the battery removed but the foam pad still in place. Note the rough area of the pad where the old battery's adhesive pulled some of the foam with it.
The next image shows the whole flex cable with the foam pad removed.
If I had to do it again, I would approach the whole project starting with the battery removal. You can pull the old battery's connector from underneath the speaker housing. Then I'd gently lift the speaker housing and using a tweezers, slide the new battery connector underneath the speaker housing. |
Nothing is never "no problem".
Mio C320, 01.10.08 MioMap 3.3 with 10.06 maps, Mio c310x, Axim x51v, Axim x50v |
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MrPete
16 Posts |
Posted - 19 févr. 2010 : 16:20:50
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I just replaced my battery. The easiest way to take care of disconnecting:
* Don't bother removing the speaker.
* GENTLY hold the three battery wires and wiggle/tug the connector out from under the speaker
* place the new connector in position, then use a small flat-blade screwdriver to alternately push on each end of the connector until it is fully seated.
Note from the photo above: black wire goes on the right. And the connector has a "ridge" on one side, which should be "up" while the flat side should be down against the circuit board.
I'm also checking into the battery parameters... something tells me these batteries are not properly calibrated. We should be able to get much more use before WinCE auto-shuts-down. I wonder if there is a utility to disable the auto-off function. |
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jimmyt
USA
95 Posts |
Posted - 23 févr. 2010 : 20:18:58
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osprey - its almost been a year.. how is the battery holding up?
thanks
jim |
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How to disassemble a mio c520?
