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 English Forums - Hardware
 Garmin iX, C3x0 and C5x0 Systems
 C320 Battery replacement – DIY
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Page: of 15

mfinifter

2 Posts

Posted - 04 janv. 2009 :  18:17:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks to everyone on this board. I am only slightly handy. So this was a challenge for me. Like many of you, my Garmin C330 started to take forever to find the satellites. Then I realized that the countdown to battery power after being unplugged from AC ceased to exist. I found this forum by accident doing a google search. Well, thanks to you I learned how the replace the battery, solder the battery tabs to the thin flat metal piece (which I kept attached to the PCB -- the protection module which many have referred to as the little circuit board). The battery I ordered online from Battery Junction.com arrived fast and had the black and red tabs clearly marked. I did not have to de-solder any wires (black or red)coming from the system itself. One of the tabs which supposedly was welded onto the battery fell off -- so I had to solder that tab onto the battery -- I wasn't too happy about that -- I got tabs to avoid having to apply any heat to the battery itself. Anyway, the soldering of that tab back onto the battery went well (I roughed up the end of the battery a little with sand paper for metal (whatever that it called.) Before I re-assembled the housing, I tried charging the battery for about 20 minutes. It held a charge. I could test-operate the system on battery power. And the battery power gauge on the top-right of the screen was functioning. At this point, I knew I had done something right. A number of posters suggested using shrink-wrap tubes for the battery. I got the largest size I could find at HD (3/4") but it was too small (I suppose the girth added by the PCB and the insulation tape around the connections was too much). So I abandoned that idea. Instead I used multiple layers of good quality electrical tape around the entire battery. I hope this is OK. So I then put the antenna back in place, closed her up, charged her real good. Then, used her in my car -- and wah-lah -- she works like new!! Thanks especially to Kris2005 and HuskerDude for their fantastic instructions and excellent pix. The whole process cost me $15-20 (plus the cost of a soldering kit 7.95 at Radio Shack which I can now use for other projects). I'm so glad I found this board. Happy New Year!!

Edited by - mfinifter on 04 janv. 2009 18:23:06
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jjnv

1 Posts

Posted - 06 janv. 2009 :  15:18:35  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I am interested in finding out the same. I tried to splice only the red and black and leave out the white wire of the new battery. While everything still works fine after I put it back together, the new battery does not hold charge at all. Do I need to order another type of battery for the two wire configuration? Could it be something else wrong with my unit?

Many thanks,

Jane

quote:
Originally posted by CatC320

Kris,

Excellent information. I have an older c320 with the orignal two-lead red/black battery that I suspect is dead. I ordered a 3.7V 2200 mAh C320-compatible battery from Megacpacity that, unlike the site display pic showing only a red and black lead, arrived yesterday with the red/black/green wire setup used in some other C3XX configurations. While I haven't taken a peek inside the heat shrink or cut anything else to void the warranty, there appears to be a small rectangular PCB on the side connected to the battery tabs. Can this three-lead battery be used, splicing only the red and black wires and tucking the green from the battery aside, or should I just return the battery and find a more "apples to apples" alternative? Appreciate any insight--other than the toasted battery, this has been a great unit.

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mfinifter

2 Posts

Posted - 06 janv. 2009 :  18:32:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I don't have an answer to your specific question. However, if you decide to order a battery with the two-wire configuration, you might want to consider BatteryJunction.com, which is where I got mine. The battery seems to work just fine in my unit, a C330. Obviously, I don't know if it will correct your problem.


quote:
Originally posted by jjnv

I am interested in finding out the same. I tried to splice only the red and black and leave out the white wire of the new battery. While everything still works fine after I put it back together, the new battery does not hold charge at all. Do I need to order another type of battery for the two wire configuration? Could it be something else wrong with my unit?

Many thanks,

Jane

quote:
Originally posted by CatC320

Kris,

Excellent information. I have an older c320 with the orignal two-lead red/black battery that I suspect is dead. I ordered a 3.7V 2200 mAh C320-compatible battery from Megacpacity that, unlike the site display pic showing only a red and black lead, arrived yesterday with the red/black/green wire setup used in some other C3XX configurations. While I haven't taken a peek inside the heat shrink or cut anything else to void the warranty, there appears to be a small rectangular PCB on the side connected to the battery tabs. Can this three-lead battery be used, splicing only the red and black wires and tucking the green from the battery aside, or should I just return the battery and find a more "apples to apples" alternative? Appreciate any insight--other than the toasted battery, this has been a great unit.



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Kris2005

USA
286 Posts

Posted - 07 janv. 2009 :  14:27:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I cannot believe it this tread is still alive!

I have got rid of mine C-series units in favor of Nuvi more than a year ago. So right now I have no access to any C-series unit.

Sorry guys I can no longer answer your questions. But I am sure there are members on this board that are more capable and will provide assistance.

Happy New Year!
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CatC320

4 Posts

Posted - 19 janv. 2009 :  23:20:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
DISCLAIMER: Any repairs attempted are at your own risk. I am not responsible for any loss, damage, or bodily injury as a result of attempting the following.

After a small bit of modification, I was able to get things going again using the new 3.6V battery that originally came with the three leads (green/red/black) (mine was a MegaCapacity 3.6V w/protection circuit between the tabs).

Using the pictures elsewhere in this post, I removed the original battery from the unit and disconnected the connector from the Garmin main circuit board (carefully note the orientation of the wire colors). I removed the black heat shrink tubing and tape covering the leads (save for later use) from the original battery. Using a small pair of wire cutters (small sharp scissors should work too), leaving the black and red wires soldered in place, I cut the two wire electrical connection assembly at both points where the tabs connect (you could also de-solder rather than cut) leaving a bit of extra tab for overlap.

On the new battery, which had a protection circuit of about the same size as the Garmin wiring connector assembly soldered between the tabs, I also removed the heat shrink, and similarly cut the protection circuit from the tabs. Noting the orientation of the battery (both have an indented ring at one end) I soldered the original Garmin battery two wire connection at the points where the tabs overlap the tabs of the new battery. It took a few times to get the solder to flow between the tabs, but made a nice solid connection. I replaced the tape on the connections, and wrapped the battery with electrical tape (heat shrink would be the better way, but good electrical tape works too). I tucked the battery back in and reattached the connector to the board.

I tried powering the unit up. Initially to my dismay it did not, so I attached the USB cable from the computer, and briefly saw the battery charge light return. After removing the unit, it then stayed powered up on battery power. I reassembled the unit--make sure to note the antenna orientation and replacement elsewhere in these posts--a little tricky. After a half day of operation it appears to be taking a charge just fine on both the USB and the car adapter, and the unit acquires satellites fine both on battery and vehicle power.

I hope this is a lasting repair and that this info is helpful to those who might be stuck with a three lead battery on a two lead device.

Rich
quote:
Originally posted by jjnv

I am interested in finding out the same. I tried to splice only the red and black and leave out the white wire of the new battery. While everything still works fine after I put it back together, the new battery does not hold charge at all. Do I need to order another type of battery for the two wire configuration? Could it be something else wrong with my unit?

Many thanks,

Jane

quote:
Originally posted by CatC320

Kris,

Excellent information. I have an older c320 with the orignal two-lead red/black battery that I suspect is dead. I ordered a 3.7V 2200 mAh C320-compatible battery from Megacpacity that, unlike the site display pic showing only a red and black lead, arrived yesterday with the red/black/green wire setup used in some other C3XX configurations. While I haven't taken a peek inside the heat shrink or cut anything else to void the warranty, there appears to be a small rectangular PCB on the side connected to the battery tabs. Can this three-lead battery be used, splicing only the red and black wires and tucking the green from the battery aside, or should I just return the battery and find a more "apples to apples" alternative? Appreciate any insight--other than the toasted battery, this has been a great unit.



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Meomaxy

USA
8 Posts

Posted - 20 févr. 2009 :  14:29:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Meomaxy

Considering how long the original battery lasted, no doubt by the end of the summer I'll be needing a replacement again, so I think I'm going to save the new 18650 battery I have on the way until that time comes.



Well, there you go. It's a year later now, and the lowly used Palm battery I installed is now giving out. For the last month or two, I've been starting to get "Low Battery" warnings as soon as I shut off the power. I still have the new 18650 battery, so I guess I'll be putting that in soon.
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jemill

1 Posts

Posted - 28 févr. 2009 :  21:35:28  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
As mentioned numerous times, this is a great thread. I have a 330 with the pcb but bought a battery without, thinking I'd reuse the one on the original battery. I've soldered the connections and my voltmeter shows the battery is charging. It's climbed from about 3.90 to 4.01 in 30 minutes. My issue is that the unit will turn on while plugged in and charging but when I remove the plug, it dies? .

Any thoughts?

My next move will be to remove the PCB and wire directly to the battery, although I'd rather have the PCB.

Thanks in advance!
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Chip_VA

USA
1 Posts

Posted - 31 mars 2009 :  03:40:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great tutorial. I have had Garmins for 15 years and thought they would support the battery replacement. (Mine lasted barely a year but finally died with repeated exposure to the sun - where it is supposed to be mounted.) Garmin told me the cost was $150, but he would give me a deal for $75. Thanks to Chris, I ordered a new 2600 mAh battey from All-Battery.com - part # 30011, for $9. With the bare leads already installed, there's no soldering necessary near the batery. Thanks Chris

C340
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MrTim

USA
2 Posts

Posted - 08 juin 2009 :  03:11:57  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Suggestions for a C340 Battery Replacement & Faster Satellite Locating

I have an older 2005 Garmin StreetPilot C340 whose battery would no longer hold a charge. I've been following this particular forum with interest because I wanted to replace the battery myself. It's been helpful to find out about the different websites that offer replacement batteries and to read about the various problems people have encountered replacing their old battery, especially the mysterious "green wire."

I'm writing to tell of my experience and offer a possible solution to some of those problems. After looking at all the various battery websites, I ended up ordering a replacement battery from www.megacapacity.com. They have exact replacement batteries for all StreetPilot models and also several optional ones with higher current ratings (mAH) than the original battery. I ordered the 2600 milliampere-hour (mAh) rated model, which has the over/under charge protection (PCB). It cost $25 with free shipping, was shipped directly from Hong Kong, and arrived in about 10 days. I was surprised to find that it had the extra green wire and also had the exact same white plastic electrical connector as my original 2-wire battery. Except for a slight difference in the labels and the green wire, the two batteries were exactly the same, right down to the different lengths of the brown and white speaker wires (the left speaker wires longer than the right ones). Being an exact match to the original battery, my guess is they are Garmin’s battery source.

Because my original battery didn’t have a green wire, I wasn’t quite sure if I really needed that wire or not, but decided to leave it, since it was already fitted to the plastic electrical connector. The good thing was that with already having the battery leads and speaker wires all connected to the one plastic connector plug, I didn’t have to worry about soldering the battery leads and possibly overheating the battery. Using a 600-watt Weller soldering gun, I first de-soldered the two old brown and the two old white wires at their speaker connections and then soldered the new respective ones in their place. All the soldering took a total of about a minute. I then plugged the new battery into the circuit board using the plastic connector, reassembled the entire unit, and then plugged it into my computer for charging using the Garmin USB cable that originally came with the GPS. The battery quickly charged up to 100% in about an hour (probably already had a partial charge to begin with). As soon as I unplugged the GPS from the USB cable, I noticed that the battery strength meter in the upper right of the screen had returned. With the old worn out battery, the unit would only operate using the cigarette lighter power cable, but it would immediately turn off as soon as I’d unplug it. When operating the unit using the power cable, the battery strength meter is apparently not displayed. Now the unit will run for many hours on battery power, especially with its high mAh rating.

As far as the extra green wire is concerned, since I didn’t have one to begin with and nothing seems to be any different with it, I’m guessing it doesn’t serve any necessary function for my C340 and that I probably could have eliminated it.

Before replacing the battery, I also had a problem with the unit being very slow to acquire satellites. When I turned it on, it would take 5 minutes or more before it would finally locate one and be ready to navigate. By then, I would have driven many miles. It wasn’t always slow, but seemed to get slower with age. While trying to find a reason for this, I happened to read the FAQ section on the Garmin website and noticed a question about doing a “master reset” of StreetPilot models. In the answer giving the instructions on how to do this master reset, it gave a warning that all data would be lost, including almanac (satellite) data. I started to wonder if maybe years of adding more and more locations (over 120 of them in My Locations) had filled up its memory or maybe the almanac data was a problem or had gotten corrupted. It sounded like the master reset was similar to reloading the operating system onto your computer after it had gotten all garbaged up and starting out fresh again. The instructions said to first turn off the unit, then press firmly on the lower right corner of the screen while pressing the power button. Then, as soon as the screen turns on, immediately release the power button and a message will pop up asking if you really want to delete all the date. Well, I tried this process about 20 times trying to get that message to pop up, but it never did. Instead, the unit would just start up and go directly to the opening menu. Finally, I emailed Garmin Support asking them what I was doing wrong. I got a reply back the next day saying I should use the eraser-end of a pencil to press firmly on the lower right corner of the screen instead of using my finger. They said the C340 screen is very picky as to exactly where you press on the screen. So, I tried a pencil eraser and it worked the very first time I tried! The question popped up, I said yes, and all my data was erased. Now, when I turn the unit on, it only takes 10-15 seconds to acquire a satellite – wow, what a huge difference. In addition, after I use it to drive to a location and turn it off while I’m parked, it’s instantly ready to navigate without any wait at all when I turn it on again to leave. It appears a master reset is the way to resolve the problem of slow satellite locating. One last suggestion – if you do a master reset, first write down a list of all your important locations (My Locations), so you can re-enter them later after all your data has been wiped clean. I didn’t think to do this and I could only remember a handful of my locations afterwards. But, I really didn’t care because my C340 works just like it did when it was brand new and it was an easy fix that only cost me $25.

One last point - you should note that there is a difference between the "reset" that is described in the C340 manual and the "master reset" that I've explained above, which I've only found described in the FAQ section of Garmin's website. The "reset" is performed by first removing the plastic face plate surrounding the screen, and then pressing the "reset" button next to the screen on the right side. Judging from the description in the manual, this reset is only used to free up a unit that has locked up and stopped responding, and does not delete any location data or the satellite almanac data like the "master reset" does.











MrTim

Edited by - MrTim on 15 juin 2009 20:14:43
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Tony H

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 08 juil. 2009 :  14:23:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Garmin 330 My battery has a small circuit board. The two wires solder to the board and then the Battery tabs solder to the bottom of the board. On the Positive side I get a direct continuity short from Tab to wire but on the negative side there is some resistance...is this a fuse of some sort?
Can I leave it out and just solder to the tabs?

Just ordered from BATTERYJUNCTION.COM $1180 delivered. 2600MaH
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CatC320

4 Posts

Posted - 10 juil. 2009 :  18:43:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
On my C320 original battery which died, I also came across a small board soldered between the tabs, and basically did a "transplant" of the original board to the new battery, soldering to the tabs (see my earlier 1/19/2009 post). After reviewing some of the later posts, I am not sure this was really necessary, but the new battery is still taking a charge, going strong, and hasn't burned anything up ;-)) Good Luck! CatC320
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jeffw11

5 Posts

Posted - 11 juil. 2009 :  00:40:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CatC320

On my C320 original battery which died, I also came across a small board soldered between the tabs, and basically did a "transplant" of the original board to the new battery, soldering to the tabs (see my earlier 1/19/2009 post). After reviewing some of the later posts, I am not sure this was really necessary, but the new battery is still taking a charge, going strong, and hasn't burned anything up ;-)) Good Luck! CatC320



My C330 had this same circuit board with the battery. I did the same thing transplanting the board to my new battery and have not had any problems. This process was done over a year ago and the battery is still running strong.
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rodr

1 Posts

Posted - 13 juil. 2009 :  22:24:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Just wanted to mention that I had success with one of these for my c320: http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Li-Ion-2600mAh-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B001JDPHG4/

It came to $13.04 with shipping and arrived via FedEx in 4 days. I just cut the old battery away from its attached circuit board and soldered in the new one, using electrical tape for insulation and to wrap it all up. Works perfectly.
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jdinapoli

1 Posts

Posted - 14 juil. 2009 :  19:49:20  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Just replaced the battery (15 Minutes). Great instructions, just as easy as described. Thanks everyone.
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cafeexpress4

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 08 août 2009 :  02:09:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Replacing battery in Garman GPS c330 -
Thanks Kris (Sticky)for all of the info. The antenae positioning helped . The thin face (silver) part is what you pry off .Do not try seperating the thick plastic parts. Remove the four phillips screws to seperate the two halves. The battery I ordered was made for the Garmin c330 thru this address for $19.95 .
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/smavstore_Garmin_W0QQ_fsubZ1175231016QQ_sidZ80817235QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322
No soldering -It already has the plug on it.Hope this simplyfies the replacement battery .Thanks again to Kris . He did a tremendous job with pictures and instructions .

cafeexpress4
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